If you’ve looked at visiting Vietnam on social media and you think of yourself as a bit of an adventure-lover then the chances are you’re wondering whether you should be adding the dramatic Ha Giang Loop to your itinerary.
On the one hand, the photos of the rural scooter tour look stunning. On the other hand, it does take up a good chunk of your time: three days on the road and two overnight buses to and from Hanoi to reach the starting point in northern Vietnam.
During our two-week trip to Vietnam, our friend Jess decided to take on the motorbiking adventure solo and here’s her honest review of it (and tips for booking the right tour, what to pack and everything else she wishes she knew before she went). Over to Jess –
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I’ll be honest and say the concept of spending three days on the back of a stranger’s motorbike, whilst mildly intriguing, wasn’t instinctively appealing to me. However I was assured by many people that this adventure ride through Northern Vietnam’s mountains was not one to miss. And they were right!
The Ha Giang Loop is a three (or four, if you’d rather take your time) day journey, exploring the mountains of the Ha Giang region.
It’s difficult to put into words how breath-taking the sights are – the vastness of the mountain range is overwhelming and, when the weather is clear, you can see for miles.
The Loop takes you along winding, cliff edge roads and also to the bottom of valleys through remote farming villages. It’s an incredible tour of rural Vietnam that would be almost entirely impossible to access in any other way.
There’s also the unexpected thrill of motorbiking on these mountain roads. Once I’d developed a trust in my driver’s driving ability (he did tend to have a competitive streak with another of his driver friends), I found the speed and agility of motorbiking weirdly addictive. It sounds cliche, but it really gave an incomparable sense of freedom.
But it’s not a glamorous trip and it’s definitely not for the faint hearted. These drivers have been biking since they were kids and they don’t mess around with their speed!
I would recommend booking an ‘easy rider’ tour. Don’t be fooled by the name, this just means that you’ll be a passenger rather than driving yourself around.
Many people on the Loop develop great relationships with their guides over the course of the trip and they really do look after you.
Plus, from my experience, and other travellers’ anecdotes, the majority of accidents on the Loop are from people riding their own motorbike. The roads are tight, unfamiliar and often slippery. It’s much better (and safer) to be a passenger and just enjoy the views.
Along with the beauty of the mountains comes the unpredictability of the weather on the Ha Giang Loop. There are websites outlining the best seasons to visit Ha Giang, but generally the mountain weather changes a lot. For that reason, views aren’t guaranteed, but even on cloudy days, the intense mountainous mist was something to behold.
Also, watch out for burning season. I went in February and was surprised by the amount of air pollution as all the local farmers were burning old crops. This, combined with the smell of motorbike diesel, was not particularly pleasant and I ended up wearing a mask for some of the trip.
Although the bike ride itself is not inherently sociable as you’re zooming round on the back of a motorbike, the lunch times and evenings are great opportunities to mingle with the rest of your tour group. I went on the tour as a solo traveller and was really nervous about being alone. But I was far from the only one and we all banded together. They proved to be great company to share the experience with.
Evening activities depended on where you are staying overnight on the loop. When I did the loop, at the most northern overnight stop, the town we were in had celebrations for the Lunar New Year that involved a large dance party in the town square. The locals were incredibly welcoming and we had an amazing night dancing away – still in our fleeces and raincoats!
The accommodation isn’t luxury. On my particular tour we were often sleeping on mattresses on the floor with up to 50 (!) people in one room – good luck getting much sleep. The overnight buses either side of the journey added to the sleep deprivation. Anyone who knows me knows that I need my eight hours, so it says a lot that I still had a phenomenal time.
Ultimately, like most tours in South East Asia, you just have to go with it. The Ha Giang Loop is a crazy, possibly a little scary, experience. But it’s also a once in a lifetime adventure that will stay with you. Travellers to Vietnam are spoilt for choice of places to visit. For me the Ha Giang Loop was an unexpected highlight and I’d strongly encourage all travellers to brave the trip!
Before you book
The tour that you choose for the Ha Giang Loop could be the thing that makes or breaks your trip. So don’t just pick the first one you find! Here’s what to think about when you do it:
Tour operator: Consider which company you book the Ha Giang Loop through. If you’re booking through a young hostel, this will match the group demographic and type of accommodation you are given.
Group size: if you’re on your own then a bigger group is good for finding other solo travellers. But at busy times the tour groups can be as big as 80 bikes. That can make driving a bit hectic and means you might not get to see all the viewpoints if the group is too big.
Overnight bus: If you’re taking the overnight bus, book VIP if possible. There’s a little more space and privacy. Sure, you’d survive on the normal bus, but the price difference is usually small and you’re much more likely to get some sleep (which you’ll need). Also, make sure the hostel/hotel that you’re returning to allows you to check in in the early hours of the morning. (This advice stands for any travel in Vietnam).
Three or four days? I think three was ample (and by the end of the third day, my bum was desperate for a break from the bike!). But it’s a personal choice.
Before you start the Ha Giang Loop
Gear up: Wear all the protective gear they offer you. I spied a few suspect looking dents in knee and elbow pads and decided it was better to be safe than sorry.
Stick with your group! There are lots of stops along the route and rarely did I see our group leader do a headcount. The same is true for overnight buses – if you’re getting off to use the loo, make sure a friend (or fellow traveller) on the bus knows to expect you back. No one wants to be left in drop toilets on the side of the road at 2am.
Download music. There are loads of playlists on Spotify inspired by the Loop. It’s proper main character energy, but worth the indulgence.
What to pack for the Ha Giang Loop
Bag: Bring a bum bag, cross-body bag, or similar, that is easily accessible whilst on the bike. The views are so insane that you’ll probably want to take pictures whilst on the go.
Clothes: Bring clothes for all weather, you’re in the mountains after all! I brought a fleece, t shirts, raincoat and a bikini. And I used all of them.
Snacks: Snacks always help. There are lots of opportunities to buy food along the way, but definitely safe to have your own supply, particularly for the overnight buses
Loo roll! Some of the toilets on the Loop leave a lot to the imagination so take loo roll and hand sanitiser
Towel: Pack a towel and flip flops for showers and possibly a swim (hostel dependent).
That being said, you can only bring a small backpack with you on the trip so pack smart!